What We Look At
Every Rise Grading submission is evaluated across four core criteria. Understanding each one helps you predict your grade and know what to look for when buying.
Centering
How evenly the printed image sits within the card's borders, measured front and back.
- Centering is measured as a ratio of the left/right and top/bottom border widths — for example 50/50 is perfect.
- For grades of 9.5 and above, we generally require 55/45 or better front and 75/25 or better back.
- Off-center printing is a factory defect, not player handling, and cannot be corrected after manufacture.
- Both horizontal and vertical axes are evaluated independently.
| 9.5–10.0+ | 55/45 or better (front), 75/25 (back) |
| 9.0 | 60/40 or better (front) |
| 8.0–8.5 | 65/35 or better (front) |
| 7.0–7.5 | 70/30 or better (front) |
| Below 7.0 | Greater than 70/30 |
Corners
The sharpness and integrity of all four corners — the most frequently damaged area on any card.
- Corners are inspected under strong directional lighting and a loupe at 10× magnification.
- Fraying occurs when the card stock layers begin to separate at the tip of the corner.
- Corner wear is categorized as: sharp, fuzzy, slightly rounded, rounded, or blunted.
- All four corners are assessed; the grade reflects the weakest corner.
- Pre-existing manufacturing defects (e.g. factory corner nicks) are noted and may affect grade.
| 9.5–10.0+ | Perfectly sharp under magnification |
| 9.0 | One corner with barely perceptible wear |
| 8.0–8.5 | Light fuzzing on up to two corners |
| 7.0–7.5 | Fuzzing or slight rounding on all corners |
| Below 7.0 | Obvious rounding or blunting visible |
Edges
The condition of all four edges — top, bottom, left, and right — for nicks, chips, and fraying.
- Edges are evaluated under raking light to reveal any chips, nicks, or roughness.
- Frayed edges occur when the card stock fibers separate along the cut line.
- Edge damage is common from storage in binders or rubber-banded stacks.
- Like corners, all four edges are assessed independently and the weakest drives the score.
- Factory cut imperfections (rough or uneven cuts) are differentiated from play wear.
| 9.5–10.0+ | Perfectly smooth, no chips or fraying |
| 9.0 | Minimal roughness, no chips |
| 8.0–8.5 | Very slight fraying on 1–2 edges |
| 7.0–7.5 | Noticeable fraying, minor nicks acceptable |
| Below 7.0 | Chipping, heavy fraying, or edge tears |
Surface
The front and back surfaces of the card — including gloss, print quality, scratches, and stains.
- Surface is assessed front and back separately under multiple light angles.
- Scratches in the card coating can range from microscopic to deep grooves visible at arm's length.
- Print defects (dots, lines, ink missing or bleeding) are factory faults that still affect grade.
- Staining, residue, or writing marks are considered serious surface defects.
- Loss of gloss ('silvering') appears as lightened areas under direct light, commonly from flex.
- Foil cards and holo patterns are especially sensitive to surface scratching and are inspected carefully.
| 9.5–10.0+ | No scratches, flawless print, full gloss |
| 9.0 | Microscopic surface wear invisible to naked eye |
| 8.0–8.5 | Very faint scratches under direct light |
| 7.0–7.5 | Light scratches or minor print defects visible |
| Below 7.0 | Obvious scratches, creases, stains, or loss of gloss |
The four criteria are weighted equally. A card that scores perfectly on three dimensions but has a significant flaw in one will be graded on its weakest attribute. There is no partial credit for outstanding performance in other areas.